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Due to the increased travel
warning issued by the U.S. State Department the week before I was
scheduled to leave on my sabbatical trip to Israel/Palestine, I
left home wondering whether or not my plan to spend seven weeks in
the holy land was brave or foolish. But I had to admit that after
a few anxious moments at checkpoints, I soon realized that what it
would take to travel in the holy land was more patience than
courage and that perhaps the State Department’s real concern
should have been for how traveling in the holy land would make me
question their policy decisions not mine!
To be in the holy land for any
length of time, one cannot avoid the reality on the ground.
As you know, the Middle East is the birthplace of three great
religious traditions: Judaism, Christianity, and Islam.
There are more religious sites per square mile here than
anywhere in the world and pilgrims of all three faith come to
walk and pray in the land of their ancestors. But this land,
rich in holy sites and history, is being torn apart by
conflict and fear.
While I was in Israel/Palestine, I
stayed at the Guest House of Christmas Lutheran Church in
Bethlehem. It was a lovely place to stay not only because the
rooms were comfortable and the meals delicious, but because I was
warmly welcomed into the life of the community and had many
opportunities to eat and talk with members of the congregation
about their lives in light of the situation. It was not always an
easy conversation. Life is difficult for the people of Bethlehem.
And my country is seen as unconditionally supporting the policies
of Israel that adversely affect the lives of ordinary Palestinians
who do not desire –or condone – the terrorist acts done by radical
groups such as Hamas or the Al Asqa Martyrs Brigade. Day after
day ordinary Palestinians try to live their lives with integrity
and courage, struggling to believe that somehow, someday life will
be different and they wonder whether the world – or the church-
cares at all about what is happening to them and to their
children.
Bethlehem is a “suburb” of Jerusalem
but checkpoints and the barrier wall being built by the Israelis
keep them from traveling outside their community. They are cut
off from their neighbors, from their farmlands, even from other
Palestinians in the West Bank. Access to good healthcare is
limited. Unemployment is at 60-70% because tourists no longer
come into Bethlehem and because those Palestinians who used to
work in Jerusalem need expensive travel permits and even with them
may be denied entry into the city. There is a good university in
Bethlehem, but there are few jobs for the graduates when they
finish their degree. There are no parks in Bethlehem. There are
no movie theaters. No malls. No zoos. No nightlife to speak of
and few permits to travel outside the country are granted so
family vacations are rare. The people of Bethlehem feel isolated
and forgotten by the world, trapped behind a 20 foot cement wall.
But thanks to the faith and witness
of the congregation of Christmas Lutheran Church and their pastor
Mitri Raheb, people are daring to believe that the future can be
different than the present reality they were living and that God
has not – will not – abandon them. In the 1995, the congregation
established the International Center of Bethlehem through which
they hope to improve lives and bear witness to the love and
intentions of God made known through the life and teachings of
Jesus. Today the Center is bustling with activity. There are
workshops teaching the art of mosaics, pottery, and stained
glass. There is a gallery for artists to display their work to
the public. There is a media center that not only offers classes
on the use of the internet (a way to keep in touch with the world)
but also produces programs on issues of concern that are broadcast
throughout the West Bank. There is also a school for children
from preschool through high school that not only teaches academics
but encourages children to express their feelings in ways that
will enhance their lives and the life of their community. There is
a health and wellness center, a swimming pool, and a playground on
site. Soon there will be ˝ million trees planted alongside the
school in order to provide a park-like place where families can
come and enjoy a Sunday afternoon picnic. The guest house where I
stayed offers the opportunity for intercultural encounters where
Palestinians and pilgrims like me can come together to share our
faith and our hopes for ourselves and the world and to figure out
ways we can work together for a fairer, more peaceable future.
In concrete ways the church and the
International Center offer hope to the people of Bethlehem and
inspiration for those of us who believe that God intends a
different reality than the one being lived in the holy land
today. It was a privilege to learn about and be part of the
ongoing work and witness of the gospel in the land where our
Savior was born. Because Memorial UCC in Fitchburg is developing
a partnership with Christmas Lutheran Church, six members of our
congregation joined me in Bethlehem so that they could not only
experience life in the holy land but also grow in our
understanding of how we can support the work and witness of the
church in Bethlehem. We would be glad to talk with anyone who is
interested in learning more about the church or about the
situation in Palestine/Israel.
More Diaries from Palestine
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