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It must be barely 10 km from
Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Jesus and Mary probably took this road,
as they made their way down from Nazareth 2,000 years ago.
But take the route today, and you
are confronted with a new obstacle.
The barrier Israel is building
around the West Bank slices through what used to be the main
road. At this point it is a towering wall of concrete.
All visitors to the Palestinian
town of Bethlehem must now pass through a high security
checkpoint.
It is the latest factor threatening
Bethlehem's role as a centre for Christian pilgrimage. Another
reason members of the large Christian minority are steadily
leaving.
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It's very sad to come through
the Wall, for our people to see the wall and see what the people
are going through here.
Pastor Jim Lindus
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The birthplace of Jesus is
celebrated in a subterranean grotto, underneath the Church of the
Nativity.
Pastor Jim Lindus leads an annual pilgrimage of his parishioners
from Trinity Lutheran Church in the United States.
"We have been coming here for 11 years, and we always think it is
important to come to Bethlehem. But it has changed drastically,"
he explained. "Much of the joy has gone."
"When we first came, there were crowds here, lots of crowds here.
But the security... it's very sad to come through the Wall, for
our people to see the wall and see what the people are going
through here."
Dwindling numbers
Visitors numbers are down to a tenth of what they were before the
Palestinian uprising started five and a half years ago.
Huge new hotels are virtually empty of guests. Souvenir shops
like the Holy Manger Store, run by Jamal Nashash, struggle to
survive.
"No good politics, no good business, and no good tourism," he
said. "If it's good politics, it's many tourists we have."
Jamal is a Muslim, though he will as happily sell you a Jewish
menorah or a Christian nativity scene.
And the Muslims here will tell you they are suffering just as
much as their Christian brothers and sisters.
But the Christian community is specially threatened.
Already they are down, in recent decades, from 95% of Bethlehem's
population to around one third.
The reasons for the decline are complicated and sensitive.
Christians have a lower birth rate than Muslims. They tend to be
richer and better educated - so more able to emigrate. They are
feeling particularly sensitive now, with the Islamists of Hamas
about to take power over the Palestinians.
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It wasn't that long ago we were having almost daily suicide
bombings... Now we've got that number right down
Mark Regev, Israeli Foreign Ministry spokesman
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But the barrier is another reason for them to leave.
Jamal Salman is one of a number of Christian landowners who has
seen a substantial chunk of his land taken for the barrier.
Along his land, it is a massive fence that runs a few metres from
the last house in the town.
As we walked along it, he warned me of the bleak prospects for
the Christian community in Bethlehem.
"I think maybe within maybe 30 or 40 years, Christians in
Bethlehem will be a very small minority... Bethlehem should have
Christians living in it."
Strong support
Jewish pilgrims are suffering as well. One of their holiest
sites, Rachel's tomb, is on the edge of the town.
For Israelis, visiting used to be an easy routine. Now they board
an armoured bus with army escort.
Eventually the wall will snake around the shrine, enabling better
access for Israelis. That did not satisfy any of the Jewish
pilgrims I spoke to.
Nevertheless, most Israelis do strongly support the building of
the barrier, which the Israeli government insists is essential
for security.
"The barrier is a very effective means of keeping suicide bombers
out of Israel, out of our cities, out of our neighbourhoods,"
said foreign ministry spokesman Mark Regev.
"You will remember it wasn't that long ago we were having almost
daily suicide bombings in this country. Now we've got that number
right down."
The Christians here feel beleaguered. They feel the world does
not understand their plight. Some of them blame fellow Christians
overseas for not doing enough on their behalf.
Reverend Mitri Raheb runs the International Centre of Bethlehem.
"I think personally that it is a shame that the international
Christian community is silent towards what is happening to
Bethlehem today," he told me.
"The international Christian community is a bit cowardly when it
comes to Israel. These are harsh words but I think some people
have to hear it."
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